Tuesday, March 18, 2008

The Secret to a Great Shine


I used to watch my dad all the time when he would shine his shoes in the morning. It was kind of a ritual for me. I'd fill up my bowl of cereal, walk over to the table, sit right next to him, turn on the radio to the news, and watch him shine his shoes. I loved it. I also learned a lot of tips. Even though I don't shine my own shoes (though I should), there aren't many girls out there that do. But I know a few things.

Why should you polish your shoes?
Remember how everyone says that first impressions are the most important? Well that's true, but did you also know that people absorb your entire image with your feet? Many people don't know this, but it's a subconscious thing. You could be wearing the best of the best, if your shoes look horrible, the entire image that you were wishing to present with wearing that "best" is gone. Out the window. Would you wear a dirty, wrinkled shirt to the office? No! So why would you do that with your shoes?

Polished shoes say something about a man (or woman), and studies have shown that dress and appearance has a major factor in perceived ability in the workplace. Dress and appearance is a major factor in a first impression, and that first impression is often the lasting impression. Polishing your shoes is a must when preparing for an interview!

It also saves you lots of money really, by protecting and extending the life of your shoes. Shoe polish is usually a wax or oil based product and a regular coat of polish will provide some waterproofing protection and keep dirt, oils, stains, and other substances from getting ingrained into the leather in your shoes. These things degrade the leather quality, and ultimately ruin the shoes.

Polishing also helps prevent scuffs and scrapes from ruining the leather, and can also have a moisturizing effect which also extends your shoe life. Untreated or unpolished leather shoes easily get scuffed, scraped, and will eventually dry out and crack.

Kinds of polish:
There are two kinds of shoe polish. Cream or paste, and wax. The first moisturizes fine leather and keeps it flexible. It soaks into the leather and allows it to breathe. They contain mineral oil though, which can help restore shoe color, but not a good idea for covering scuffs. Also if you touch your face afterwards, mineral oil tends to clog up pores so it can lead to break-outs.

The second kind shines leather better than cream, but often seals the leather and can cause it to dry out over time. But it is still the most effective for covering up scuffs, and giving that high shine.

Remember that there also liquid polishes out there. These put a fast shine on your shoe, but can often dry out and crack good leather.

How to polish:
I am basing this off of memory. So there may be a few missing pieces, but I'm pretty sure that I remember it exactly.

1. Wear clothes that you're not attached to.

2. lay down a layer of newspaper or a plastic garbage bag to prevent polish from getting on your work surface.

3. Brush away any dust, dirt, oils, or anything else.

4. Wipe the shoe, especially the heel and sole, with a cloth. If your shoes are really dirty, or if the shoes have stains, use a leather cleaner such as saddle soap. Ivory soap or Murphy's Oil soap also work. Apply the cleaner with a damp cloth (very little water), wipe it off and let them dry for five minutes before you start to shine them.

5. Make sure the polish matches the shoes. Neutral is the "color" for light colored shoes. Other colors may have to be matched by taking one of your shoes with you when you buy polish. Or you can ask your local shoe repairman what color is right.

6. Apply the polish with a soft, clean polishing rag; if you're really poor old socks will work fine. Wrap the corner of the cloth around your first and second fingers of your hand. Twist the remainder of the cloth to tighten the portion around your fingers and hold that part in the palm of your hand. You can also use a horsehair brush (dauber) instead of a cloth. They're available at shoe repair or drug stores. If you use a dauber, you'll need a different one for each color of polish you use. Even coffee filters can be used to apply shoe polish evenly.

7. Apply a small amount of polish in a circular motion. Pay special attention to cracks and scuffs, and be sure to cover the entire shoe. Allow the polish to dry for a few minutes before buffing the shoe. At this point, your shoe will have a very dull appearance. This is normal.

8. Next, grab your brush or a rag, and use quick light strokes to buff the polish. If you use a rag, be sure to use a thin, soft cloth and add a few drops of water, which will help in the buffing process. Another trick I've seen men use are wet cotton balls to get a mirror-like shine.

9. Liquid sole and edge dressing may be used to restore the edge of the soles

10. You should polish your shoes as needed. In between wearings, you should wipe off accumulated dust and dirt to keep them looking clean and new. You can also buff them with your shoe brush or rag to bring back the shine.

Now this is only for the "basic" shoe. Which is your office standard. For other shoes you need another way of polishing.

Cordovan shoes:
Real shell cordovan, made from horse hide, not just shoes that are burgundy color, need some special care. Neutral cream or paste polish tends to leave a white film on Cordovan leather. I would use cordovan color paste wax polish and not shoe cream. Though this is a little more expensive, it's worth it. Also beware that the shell cordovan creases are usually lighter, not darker, in color. Cordovan leather is vegetable tanned instead of the modern method of "chrome" tanning. Since cordovan leather already contains a large amount of oil/wax, the polishing requirements are different from calfskin.


1. Use a damp soft cloth for cleaning shell cordovan shoes. Do not clean cordovan shoes using saddle soap

2. Apply polish: Do not use "neutral" polish. Don't slather it on. The most common mistake in shining cordovan shoes is using too much polish. The excess polish creates a layer of build-up, which has three negative effects: a) it covers the natural beauty of the leather, b) it creates a grainy texture in the creases of the shoes, c) and the build-up of polish scuffs easily and attracts dust. To avoid these things, use only the thinnest film of polish when polishing your cordovan shoes. A Little goes a long way in this case.

3. Cordovan shoes don't need to polished as frequently. Most of the time all that you need to do is just brush and cloth them in order to remove scuffs and restore the shine. Do not attempt to clean cordovan shoes using petroleum distillates or cleaning fluids, and Do not use any spray shines or aerosol type waterproofs.

4. After the polish is applied, let it dry, then brush it off with a horsehair brush. Don't try to dry wet shell cordovan shoes with heat or a heater. Wipe them dry, and allow them to dry naturally. Do not attempt to polish shell cordovan shoes while wet. Contact with water can sometimes cause cordovan leather to form small raised areas called "welts" (tiny bumps). This is normal, and the welts will recede once the shoes are allowed to dry. Wipe the shoes dry as soon as convenient, and allow them to dry naturally.

5. wipe the final film of polish away with a soft buffing cloth. Spewing, a natural milky residue of wax will often form on new shell cordovan shoes. This is a normal residue from the tanning of the leather. Wipe it off with a soft cloth or brushing.

Here are some other ways of shoe care:
Exotic skins can be treated like calfskin, or with special conditioners that keep the leather from cracking. Take extra care when brushing to prevent scratching the surface.

Fabric shoes can be cleaned with a mild spray fabric cleaner. Let the cleaner dry to a powder and brush off the residue with a stiff brush. You can also use Woolite.

Suede can be cleaned with a clean soft brush (like a toothbrush), or you can buy special erasers called suede bars to remove stains and dirt. Raise the nap on suede by applying steam from a steam iron from about 10 inches away. Also special brass-bristle brushes are available to raise the nap after cleaning. A protective non-silicone finish (like Scotchgard) sprayed on new suede shoes will help repel water and stains.

Nubuck shoes (brushed leather similar to suede, but with a finer nap) are treated with water repellent. Use a suede bar

Patent leather can be cleaned with a damp cloth using lukewarm water and plain soap or Windex. Shine with a smooth soft cloth. Don’t get any of the fabric wet (like the ribbon bow).

Tips to remember for various conditions:
Wet shoes: If your shoes get wet, stuff them with terrycloth or paper towels, and let them dry away from direct heat at room temperature. Don’t polish your shoes while they are still wet.


Salt on shoes: Damaging white salt marks should be rinsed off immediately with a 50/50 mixture of white distilled vinegar and water. Wipe dry

Squeaky Shoes: the shoe’s soles may be breaking down due to the rubber or synthetic material, try replacing the soles preferably with leather. Or the shank, which is made of steel, is loose or defective. Some companies make their shanks out of leather. This is an easy replacement for your shoe repairman. Or the easiest the tongue may be rubbing where the shoes are laced – just apply saddle soap to reduce the friction.

Scuffmarks:ey can be treated in an emergency with a small amount of toothpaste on a damp rag, and then wiped.

Tips:
1. Always shine your shoes when you first buy them and before you wear them, then shine them on a regular schedule after that. Preventive maintenance my friend

2. Keep shoetrees in your shoes when you're not wearing them. It'll keep the shoe's shape, and prevent it from shrinking (which leather is prone to do). Also, it's a good idea to but the shoetrees in immediately when you take your feet out. The trees will do more good if the leather is warm and moist from use than if it isn't.

3. Moisture protection is a must. Mink oil will waterproof and preserve the shoe, but it can darken lighter shades of leathers. Silicone spray provides water protection and doesn't alter the color. Shoe care

4. A stain protective spray for leather is for protection. It is not a substitute for polish, but it is is still a pretty good idea to keep it on hand.

5. Remember: A proper polishing can make cheap shoes look expensive- and expensive ones look as pricey as they are.

6. Aim to shine about once a week: There isn't a hard and fast rule, but your shoes should be pristine at all times

7. Use a soft brush to remove any surface dirt: It'll protect the shoe. Then apply a neutral color cream, such as Meltonian Cream, to restore the leather's essential oils. You can get away with not using this and going straight to the policy, but the cream is the life preserver. The polish is the aesthetic element.

8. To remove the wax in difficult areas, such as between stitches, use a toothbrush.

9. Go for a beeswax polish: it'll give you a higher shine. Cover the forefinger of your writing hand in a cloth. Use it to take up the polish, and in a circular motion apply the polish on the surface of the shoe. Repeat until you get the desired effect. And please...put some muscle into the job.

10. Ultimately, though, there's nothing like a professional shine: shoe polishing is an art. Many professionals spend between forty minutes and an hour on a pair. If you do it yourself, it takes five minutes. That's the difference right there.

And there you go. All that I know about shinning men's shoes. If I'm missing anything please let me know and I'll edit what's necessary.

"But my heart belongs To Daddy" -Eartha Kitt

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